A walk on the wild side? The Pembrokeshire section of the Wales Coast Path

For 186 breathtakingly rugged miles, the Pembrokeshire section of the Wales Coast Path promises days full of seabirds, seals, puffins and even the occasional dolphin. Tony Bowerman says it’s unmissable.

Green Bridge

It’s official: Pembrokeshire offers world-class walking. Recently voted the “world’s second-best coastal destination” by National Geographic magazine and, in 2011, named the second in a list of the “world’s top ten long distance paths”, the Pembrokeshire coast path is definitely a dream destination for walkers.  The lovely Pembrokeshire section of the Wales Coast Path undulates along the top of rugged cliffs, in and out of secluded coves and tiny harbours, and along numerous sandy beaches.

Strumble Head

From the remotest reaches of the north coast near Strumble Head on day one to the popular beaches around Tenby on the final day, it provides a wonderfully varied experience. Whether you come for the scenery or the solitude, the wildlife, Welsh history, language and culture, or simply to immerse yourself in an exceptional corner of Britain, Pembrokeshire certainly won’t disappoint.

Pembrokeshire’s unique qualities were recognised as far back as 1952 when it became one of Britain’s first National Parks. The path traverses several National Nature Reserves, lots of Sites of Special Scientific Interest and one of the UK’s four Marine Nature Reserves, all helping protect the area’s geology, habitats and wildlife.  Along the way, you’ll encounter countless seabirds — including puffins, peregrines, choughs, gannets and fulmars.  You’re also likely to see plenty of inquisitive seals, and if you’re lucky, porpoises and dolphins.  But most memorable, perhaps, are the spectacular carpets of maritime wildflowers that colour the cliffs and offshore islands in spring and early summer.

Pembroke Castle

As well as ever-changing scenery, the coast path is a walk through history too.  Cover the whole route over fourteen or so days and you’ll discover prehistoric burial chambers near Fishguard, Aberdraw and Manorbier, standing stones and hillforts, dramatic medieval castles at Pembroke and Manorbier again, tiny Celtic chapels and atmospheric St David’s Cathedral.  Several sections of the coast are also managed and protected by the National Trust.

Wonderful walks 

For the first few days, the Pembrokeshire section of the Wales Coast Path runs along the rugged north coast with its high, often remote and windswept cliffs. Along the way, it drops in to Newport, Fishguard and the tiny cathedral city of St David’s.

Once round the St David’s peninsula, the path enters St Bride’s Bay, with its hidden coves and historic headlands. Beyond the Marloes peninsula and St Ann’s Head, the coast becomes more developed around the Milford Haven, before rounding the Angle peninsula, and passing through spectacular limestone and sandstone scenery on its way to lovely Tenby and its end at Amroth, on the Pembrokeshire/Carmarthenshire border.

Carreg Samson cromlech

Favourite day walks include the section between Stack Rocks and Bosherton Lily Ponds, passing the amazing sea arch at the ‘Green Bridge of Wales’ and tiny St Govan’s Chapel hidden in a cleft in the cliffs. For a longer, two day walk,  I recommend the stretch from Strumble Head to Whitesands Bay. It’s got some of the best dramatic scenery on the whole Pembrokeshire coast and a host of prehistoric remains including the fascinating Carreg Samson cromlech.



More information:



For a detailed guide to the 186-mile linear route, get hold of a copy of the Official Guide: Wales Coast Path: Pembrokeshire by Vivienne Crow.

(ISBN  978-1-908632-23-4 | £13.99).

For details, see: Official Guide: Wales Coast Path: Pembrokeshire





Or if you prefer short, circular walks along the coast, try the two attractive pocket-size ‘Top 10 Walks’ books for the Wales Coast Path: Pembrokeshire — North and South, both by Dennis Kelsall.

(ISBNs  978-1-908632-29-6 and 978-1-908632-30-2 | £5.99 each).

For details, see: Pocket-size ‘Top 10 Walks’: Pembrokeshire

Book Review - Pub Walks: Walks to Cumbria's Best Pubs

In my experience, small pocket walking books are generally rubbish.  They are often too small with tiny drawn maps - poor relations to proper Ordnance Survey ones - not properly researched, in black and white with no photographs and most are simply lifted from other larger books.

So I must say I came to the latest in Northern Eye Books' Top 10 Walks series with little enthusiasm.  This would be another one bad pocket walking books... wouldn't it?  Well, I started to begin hoping the old adage "You can't judge a book by its cover" wasn't true - as the cover provided a tantalising introduction to the potential of the book.  If I could find that pub, I'll be ready and waiting to go on a walk!

Opening the book up, and I found extended covers - both at the front and the back - which can be used as book markers to hide away the pages of the book not pertinent to the walk.  A touch with I liked.

The author of this little book is Vivienne Crow - and if anyone can pick ten of the best walks to Lake District  pubs, then Vivienne is a great person to carry that out, what with her in-depth knowledge of the National Park.  Looking at the map showing the location of the pubs, there's a good spread across the Lake District; some to the north, some to the west, and, of course a cluster in the honey pot areas around Grasmere, Ambleside and Coniston.  Nothing around the Ullswater area though - does that mean there are either no top pubs around there...?

So what of inside the book?  Black and White?  Walks lifted from other books?  Line drawn maps?

Well, no... no... and no.

The book is beautifully designed with a two column per page layout affording an easy read of the detailed walking routes.  Having done several of these walks - or variations on them - I can attest to the detail in the route descriptions.  Interspersing each of the main walking route is additional notes and comments in italics - these give more info about features to look out for and historical information - and it's rather like Vivienne is walking along with you, chatting to you as you go.  The maps are proper Ordnance Survey Explorer ones, and are shaped so that only the walking route and the immediate surrounding areas are shown in the book.  The walking route is depicted with bold rustic orange lines which are impossible to miss.

Photography in the book is simply stunning - and there are six sources of images credited in the book; one of which is the impressive Stewart Smith - always a favourite of ours.

I also liked the details about each of the pubs featured in the book.  Ok, so the real ales provided can change, as can food serving times, but it is refreshing to not have to return to the net to find out this info,

So, overall, Pub Walks: Walks to Cumbria's Best Pubs is a pocket walking book which has changed my views on pocket walking books.  Colourful; bold yet well designed; littered with interesting images; proper OS mapping and original routes.

In short, a book every Lakeland walker should find a place for on their bookcase - especially at £4.99.

Pub Walks: Walks to Cumbria's Best Pubs by Vivienne Crow, published by Northern Eye Books.

Walks Around Britain rating 9/10

Order it now online from Amazon here.